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Foods of Hawaii

If you love to travel, then you probably enjoy discovering the local cuisine and various ways people from different parts of  the world, country, and sometimes even within our own state have of expressing themselves. 

And quite to my delight, the foods we find in each locale also have their own distinctive or subtle flavor.  People from Dallas,TX, Memphis TN, Kansas City, MO, and Lexington, NC, would all argue that "their" version of BBQ, be it beef or pork, is "the best"!  Some places become identified with certain foods;  Philadelphia and its soft pretzels and Philly-Cheese sandwiches, Boston for its lobster, San Francisco for its sourdough bread, Milwaukee for its beer n' brats, New Orleans for its Cajun cuisine, and the list goes on and on.

Hawaii has its own twist on foods, but its also very hard to put your finger on any one "signature" dish that is identified with Hawaii.  Oh, sure, people think of Hawaii and pineapples, but pineapples have not been a major commercial crop in Hawaii for 20 years, since Dole closed its cannery operation in Honolulu and stopped growing pineapples on Lanai in 1990.

Hawaii is known for being diverse in its ethnic make up and the roots for most of this ethnic mix in Hawaii can be mostly credited to not just the pineapple, but also the sugar industry.  Many of the Chinese, Japanese, Portuguese, Filipinos, etc...were initially brought to Hawaii to work the fields as farm laborers.   By sharing such lowly beginnings, there was very little posturing of any one group feeling superior to another.

This importation of a myriad of ethnic groups also explains the root of "pidgin' English", which is an eclectic mixture of several languages, including Creole, Hawaiian and English, that enabled people who spoke different languages to communicate with one another and more importantly, for the work foremen to communicate with their laborers.

 In turn, this mix of ethnic workers is also responsible for the creation of the "plate lunch", which to this very day remains very popular.  Workers would bring their lunch from home and each worker would look to see what the other guy had to eat.  Well, over a period of time, they would try one another's lunches and eventually a selection of popular items began to emerge..

Today, common offerings to be found on plate lunches would include:  teriyaki steak, shoyu chicken, chicken katsu, mahimahi, and sometimes "kalua pig" (most likely oven-roasted today, but the original kalua pig was prepared as you are shown at most of the popular luau's...pig buried in a pit and left to cook on a bed of coals, ti-leaves, and split banana stumps).   Along with your choice of one or more of these entrees, you would typically also get two scoops of white rice and one scoop of macaroni salad, Hawaii-style, heavy on the mayonnaise with potatoes.

A variation on the plate lunch is the Japanese "bento box", which typically includes an entree or two and rice.  Some bento boxes are what amounts to a variety pack of sushi.  But, whether its called a bento box or plate lunch, they are just variations on a theme.   Everyone has their favorite plate lunch vendor, whether its a brick-and-mortar restaurant or a mobile lunch wagon.   Its also a very inexpensive way to sample the wide variety of local foods and flavors.  Be adventuresome and try something that's new to you!

A must-stop for my family and me whenever we're in the area is to grab lunch at the Ala Moana Shopping Center Food Court.  I would suggest you find your way there so that you can appreciate the variety of foods available on a daily basis.  And, yes, if you're not feeling adventuresome, they also serve hotdogs, pizza and such.  But, for the rest of you, its a great venue for trying Hawaiian, Chinese, Japanese, Thai, Filipino, Portuguese and other ethnic foods.  (Being Hawaii, its common to find some of each at each food vendor, regardless of what their main menu suggests.)

Another very popular local favorite which you will find literally everywhere, is the "Spam-musubi".  While most people on the mainland don't care for this mysterious blend of ham and pork parts, Hawaii has by far, the highest per capita consumption of Spam anywhere!  There actually is an emergency warehouse filled with Spam, in case of a shipping strike should interrupt the regular delivery of this canned staple to the islands.  During WWII, when meat was scarce and Spam was fed to many of the servicemen, many of them brought back their fondness to Hawaii and unlike most other places, the taste and convenience hit home with the locals.

You will find a wide variety of dishes using Spam as one of, if not the major ingredient.   A Spam-musubi is simply the melding of Spam and rice wrapped in the same dried seaweed (nori) used in making maki-sushi  The rice is usually plain white rice since Spam has enough saltiness to add for flavoring, but you can also find variations including Spam-musubi made using fried rice.  And, while it is eaten throughout the day, for breakfast, snack, lunch, and sometimes, even dinner, if you really want to get a feel for why Spam-musubi is so popular, try having one after spending hours and hours at the beach, whether's its surfing, fishing, snorkeling, or just playing. It really hits the spot!

During my most recent vacation in February 2010, there was a tsunami warning issued after a strong earthquake hit off the coast of Chile.  In anticipation of the possible loss of power the people in Hawaii, like people everywhere, hit the stores to stock up on staples.  Throughout the southern states, when a hurricane is approaching, long lines form at the gas pumps and  they restrict how much gas you can buy in order to stretch supplies.  In Hawaii, since there isn't very far you can drive anyway, there were no such restrictions at the gas pumps.  

Whereas on the mainland, as people anticipate the possible loss of power in the aftermath of a hurricane, they stock up on milk, water, bread and ice.  In Hawaii, some stores restricted the purchase of Spam to two cases...not cans, cases!  If you've never tried it and I have your curiosity aroused, don't worry, I doubt you will have any trouble finding it...anywhere in Hawaii, anytime of day or night. you can find this popular convenience food at the nearest grocery store, convenience store, gas stations, and even some retail establishments.

Note:  Before you think that you'll be in a gastronomical  wasteland, you will be happy to know that you can also find some of the best restaurants in the world right here in Hawaii.  As I mentioned in my introductory pages, this Website was not intended to guide those of you seeking 4 and 5-star level accommodations and amenities.  If you choose to, you will have little trouble finding some great 4 and 5-star restaurants, and the variety of cuisines readily available may surprise you as well.  Honolulu is a world-class city, which is why there is much to enjoy there.

If you are a love sushi, you might think you have arrived in sushi-heaven.  There are probably more sushi restaurants in Honolulu than anywhere this side of Tokyo!  A word on "sushi", while I'm on the subject, "sushi" is not "raw fish", as many would have you believe.  The term "sushi" refers to the vinegar-sugar seasoned rice.  What you put on or in your rice is up to you!  Often, it is raw fish, but only the freshest, best cuts of fish can be called "sushi grade".  So, you might keep in mind that there are as many cooked toppings as there are raw toppings that make up most sushi menu selections.

Hawaii Tourism Authority/Ron Dahlquist Photo courtesy of Hawaii Tourism Authority/Ron Dahlquist

Note:  While many people love the taste of "wasabi" and consider it the main flavor of sushi, its ok if you don't like it...I don't.  So, when you order your sushi, simply ask that they do not put any wasabi on your sushi.  Some restaurants will serve wasabi on the side, but many slather it right on the rice as they make your sushi roll.  ("Wasabi" is that green colored paste, a type of Japanese horseradish.)  The other garnish that usually comes with sushi is pickled ginger.  Its intended to be a palate cleanser, but if you don't care for its flavor, that's ok, too, many don't.

"Portuguese sausage" is another local favorite.  It comes in either a mild or hot version and there are several different companies that produce them.  Each local has his or her favorite brand...its just a matter of taste.  How popular is this item?  Popular enough to be included on McDonald's breakfast menu...Portuguese sausage and egg (w/rice of course)...listed right next to Spam and eggs!  

Lover's of Asian  food will not be disappointed in neither the number or quality of Chinese, Vietnamese, and Thai restaurants to be found throughout the state.  "Dim sum" is more readily found in Honolulu than it is in most cities and there are some excellent dim sum restaurants including the Royal Garden Chinese Restaurant in the Ala Moana Hotel.  It is arguably one of the top dim sum restaurants in Honolulu.  They still deliver dim sum to your table side the traditional way, on carts that are wheeled table to table and you select what you want from them as they go by. 

Dim sum/ Hawaii Tourism Authority/Tor Johnson Photo courtesy of Hawaii Tourism Authority/Tor Johnson

If you are not familiar with Chinese dim sum and do not have an adventuresome spirit and palate, you may be somewhat intimidated.  I have gone there for years and since I don't speak Chinese, still order using the tried and true, finger pointing method to get what I want off the carts.  Of course, there are times when I don't really know what I'm getting, other than something that looks good enough to eat!  I am sometimes surprised, but rarely ever disappointed.

An equally highly recommended dim sum restaurant would be Legend Seafood, downtown in Chinatown.  The same atmosphere prevails with freshly cooked dishes piled onto carts which are brought to you to make your selections.  At both restaurants, your bill is marked by the cost of each dish you select and at the end of your meal, they simply add up the marks, multiply by the cost they represent and hand you a final tally.  Plan on spending between $12 and $20 per person.

No article on food in Hawaii that mentions dim sum would be complete without mentioning "char siu bow" or "manapua", as it is more commonly called.  It is a sweet bun filled with a mix of char siu (Chinese bbq) and vegetables in a light sweet sauce, which is either steamed or baked.  Think of it as the Chinese equivalent to a hamburger.  There is also a variation on the theme which has "lup cheong", a type of Chinese sausage, that is fairly greasy, and while not universally liked, has a unique and distinctive flavor.  This, obviously, is the Chinese equivalent to a hotdog.

Two local chains that are very popular with the locals and frequent visitors to the islands are Zippy's on Oahu and L & L on the Big Island of Hawaii.  Both serve reasonably priced, generous portioned dishes that are more "plate lunch" than standard restaurant fare.  Local favorites dominate the menus, although you can find comfortingly familiar foods to eat there as well.  In addition, many Zippy's restaurants also have a bakery counter located next to the fast food counter and a few are experimenting with a sushi bar, as well.

An unexpected best seller at Zippy's is their chili...who would have guessed!   Other favorite menu items at Zippy's is the chicken katsu or mixed plate with both chicken katsu and teriyaki steak.  Dishes come with the usual white rice and macaroni salad.  Chicken or pork "katsu" are Japanese dishes in which boneless chicken breast or pork tenderloin are pounded flat till they are 1/4" thick, then they are dusted in flour, dipped in egg wash, then pressed into "panko" (Japanese bread crumbs), and fried until a golden brown.  Served with a soy based dipping sauce, it once was only found on more exclusive Japanese restaurants' menus.

Another local favorite is Rainbow Drive-in, located just a few miles outside of Waikiki.  It has been a Honolulu landmark for decades and continues to delight the local palate.  Their secret?  The gravy that covers the rice on just about everything you order.  Everything is served "plate lunch" style, which means, rice and of course, macaroni salad.  Even the hotdog and chili, comes as a plate lunch with the aforementioned, rice and macaroni salad.  It's not for everyone, but the locals love the place.

At L & L, you may want to try the kalua pig and cabbage or lau lau plate.  To remind you, "kalua pig" is the pit cooked (now mostly oven roasted), smoky flavored pork served at the local luaus, while "lau lau" are individual packets of pork, taro leaves, and usually include a small piece of salted butterfish for flavoring, wrapped in ti-leaves and steamed.  (I would probably not recommend lau lau for those on a low-sodium diet, but it is very flavorful and uniquely Hawaiian.)  

A lau lau plate, wherever it is served, usually comes with "poi", which has the consistency, and some say the flavor, of paste.  It is a very bland, somewhat sour, less-than-appetizing purplish paste made from taro root that has been pounded and mixed with water.  Its blandness is actually calculated to offset the saltiness of the lau lau, kalua pig, or "lomi-lomi" it often accompanies.  "Lomi-lomi" is a simple mix of cubed or chunks of raw fish (usually ahi, aka tuna or salted salmon), chopped onions, chopped tomatoes, green onion, and lots of salt.  If you don't care for the taste of either poi or lomi-lomi, don't feel bad, even the locals have a love it or hate it attitude towards them.

Another popular dish is the "only in Hawaii"- "loco-moco", which is said to have its roots in Hilo, Hawaii.  The original loco-moco is a bowl of rice, hamburger patty, fried egg (over-easy), all smothered in brown gravy!  A nutritionists nightmare, I'm sure, but a local favorite nonetheless.  Cafe 100, in Hilo, is the reputed birthplace of the original loco-moco.  The variations have grown to include a variety of meat choices.  There is a Spam-loco-moco (no big surprise there), Portuguese-sausage loco-moco, and a myriad of others to choose from.  Today, you can find some variation of loco-moco at most restaurants, including some of the finer restaurants in Hawaii.

And no trip to Hawaii would be complete without trying two perennial favorites, sweet bread (real bread, not cow's brain) and malasadas. You may already be familiar with King's Bakery's Hawaiian Sweetbread which went national some years ago and can now be found just about everywhere you have a large chain supermarket.  Originally called Portuguese Sweetbread, crediting the roots for this flavorful bread, it now comes in a variety of flavors, including guava, taro, and strawberry, from a number of bakeries.

If you happen to be visiting the Big Island of Hawaii, you might want to try another brand that is proving to be just as popular,  Punaluu Bakery   sweetbread can be found in many of the local grocers or you can stop by the bakery itself, located in the southernmost community of Naalehu.  Its namesake, Punaluu, is the black sand beach located about 9 miles towards Hilo, and where the bakery first started making the sweetbread before relocating to Naalehu.

"Malasadas" is another Portuguese derived dessert which found a home in Hawaii.  Consider it a donut without a hole or a bismarck without the filling and you'll get the idea.  Or better yet, try one of these sugar coated delights and come up with your own description.  Just as you will find elephant ears or funnel cakes at carnivals on the Mainland, you will find red and white, malasadas wagons at festivals and fairs here.

  Photo courtesy of Hawaii Tourism Authority/Tor Johnson

And, just as King's Bakery is "home" to the sweetbread, Leonard's is the home of the malasadas.  That is not to say that there are not numerous of other locations that also make quality products and some would argue better products, but these two would be considered "home" to these two, at least in Honolulu.  (By the way, Leonard's is located just a mile or two from Waikiki on Kapahulu Avenue.)

So, as you can readily see, the foods in Hawaii are varied and have their roots in many ethnic groups.  There are as many more that I have not mentioned in this short article, but that's half the fun of travel...exploring and discovering new foods and flavors to try.  If you like shrimp, you'll love the freshwater giant prawns they raise near Kahuku on Oahu.  If you are a fish lover, the chefs in Hawaii have more experience in preparing fresh fish, than in most cities.  And, if you're a tried and true meat lover...fear not, excellent steaks are available as well.

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